Costa Rica Calls: Our First Tropical Christmas at Ocotal Beach

2018 brought so much travel. I loved every damn minute. My better half racked up even more trips than I did that year. She attended a couple of FAMs without me. Work kept me home. October saw her jetting off to St. Lucia. In November she returned to the Dominican Republic. Puerto Plata this time. Apparently one DR visit per year isn’t enough when you’re a travel agent.

But our travels weren’t quite done. A disastrous Christmas gathering the year before changed everything. Family dynamics and eggnog don’t always mix well. I made an executive decision: we would never spend Christmas in Canada again. Ever. When you’re married to a travel agent, these ultimatums have consequences. Good consequences.

December found us winging our way to Costa Rica. Ten glorious days awaited us. A beachfront villa. Two other couples. Our first tropical Christmas. No snow or shoveling. No frozen car batteries. Just sun, sand, and cold beer instead of hot cocoa. The kind of Christmas miracle I could get behind.

Landing in Liberia: Gateway to Guanacaste’s Gold Coast

We flew into Daniel Oduber Quiros International Airport. It sits just outside Liberia, the capital of Guanacaste Province. For those unfamiliar with Costa Rican geography, Guanacaste occupies the northwestern Pacific coast. The region earned itself the nickname “Gold Coast” for damn good reason.

This area boasts over 400 miles of coastline. You’ll find everything from powdery white sand to dramatic volcanic black sand. It’s one of the hottest and driest parts of Costa Rica. Sunshine and beach weather dominate most of the year. Basically, it’s paradise with a side of “pura vida.”

Getting to Ocotal

After clearing customs, we headed to the car rental agency. We’d reserved two vehicles for our stay. This wouldn’t be one of those cushy all-inclusive packages. No sir. The wife had found a three-bedroom villa on Ocotal Beach through VRBO. We were going full DIY on this adventure.

The drive took about 40 minutes. We followed surprisingly good secondary highway. Northern Guanacaste’s landscape is distinctive. Think tropical dry forest rather than lush rainforest. During the dry season (December through April), the hillsides turn golden brown. This creates a unique desert-meets-tropics vibe.

Cattle ranching is huge here. We passed sprawling pastures with Brahman cattle. They grazed under the relentless sun. They looked far more comfortable than I would have been without air conditioning.

The Twisting Road to Paradise

Then we turned onto a narrow, twisting side road. At least it was paved. Small mercies and all that. The road snaked its way toward the coast. It wound through increasingly residential areas. Glimpses of the Pacific Ocean teased us from between houses and palm trees.

Finally, we arrived at the Ocotal Beach Club. This small complex featured charming two-story villas. A community pool anchored the property. A covered patio with a kitchen area provided gathering space.

Discovering Ocotal Beach: A Hidden Gem on the Gulf of Papagayo

Here’s what you need to know about Ocotal Beach. Locals call it Playa Ocotal. This isn’t one of those tourist-mobbed beaches. You won’t fight for sand among thousands of other pasty northerners. Ocotal tucks into a quiet cove on the southern edge of the Gulf of Papagayo. It sits about three kilometers south of the much busier Playas del Coco.

Black Sand Paradise

The beach itself spans only about a third of a mile. What it lacks in length, it makes up for in character. The sand at Ocotal is distinctive charcoal black. Volcanic in origin, courtesy of Costa Rica’s geologically active history. It’s one of the blackest sand beaches in the country.

Under the tropical sun, that dark sand gets hot. Hot enough to make you do the tourist two-step all the way to the water’s edge.

Rocky points bookend both ends of the beach. A small island sits just off the southern point. These rock formations create excellent snorkeling and diving conditions. The government actively restored coral reefs here after red tide damage. Ocotal Beach holds Blue Flag certification. That means it’s recognized as one of the cleanest beaches in Costa Rica. Quite an achievement in a country full of pristine coastlines.

Settling In

The six of us unpacked all our gear from the cars. We explored our immediate surroundings. The villa sat mere steps from the beach. Only a short walkway and some strategically placed palm trees separated us. Right there, practically in our front yard, stood Father Rooster. This quaint beach bar and restaurant would become our second home.

After a long day of travel (and what first day isn’t long?), we couldn’t wait to order. Father Rooster sits right on the sand. Colorful hanging lanterns decorate the space. Seating areas blur the line between restaurant and beach. The vibe is exactly what you want from a beachfront cantina. Casual, friendly, with enough character to make you feel like you’ve discovered a local secret.

It became the first of multiple meals at Father Rooster. The fare was delicious. The drinks were refreshing and plentiful. When I say plentiful, I mean tropical cocktails that make you forget you have responsibilities back in the frozen north.

Sunset Paradise

That first evening offered a beautiful opportunity. Drinks in hand, we watched the sunset. Good conversations flowed. Laughter filled the air. Guanacaste sunsets are legendary. The Pacific sun melts into the horizon in explosions of orange, pink, and purple. Suddenly you understand why people write bad poetry.

Ocotal’s calm waters reflected the sky like a mirror. Boats moored in the bay bobbed gently on the evening tide. It’s the kind of scene that makes you want to sell everything and move to the beach. Until you remember you’d miss good beer selection and reliable internet.

Morning would bring our first Coco run. We needed sustenance for the duration. But after a round of continuous yawns, another need became evident. Sleep in a proper bed after hours of travel.

Morning in Paradise and the Coco Run

Early risers in our group made coffee. The villa supplied it. They tried keeping the noise level down. Some of us have a Kraken-like nature before sufficient caffeine. Kate may or may not have been one of those Kraken people. She will neither confirm nor deny. Dave’s knowing smirk every morning says plenty.

The Five-Minute Drive That Changes Everything

Everyone roused and ready, we loaded into both cars. Destination: Coco. The drive from Ocotal to Playas del Coco takes five to ten minutes. Your curve-taking aggression determines the exact time. The two communities couldn’t be more different. Ocotal is peaceful and residential. Coco is the bustling commercial hub.

Playas del Coco evolved from a small fishing village. Now it’s one of the most developed beach towns in Guanacaste. It sits at the heart of the Gulf of Papagayo. The main strip is lined with bars, restaurants, souvenir shops, and tour operators.

The beach itself features a winding beachfront promenade. Water fountains and a sports area dot the walkway. Vendors sell pipas (chilled green coconuts). Snow cone carts help you cool down on hot days.

Grocery Shopping, Traveler Style

The town is just such a quaint little touristy place. Markets, souvenir shops, eateries, and bars are everywhere. We had no trouble locating a small grocery store. Each of us selected provisions. Small breakfasts were the plan. Lots of snacks. Frozen meals for easy evenings when we didn’t feel like cooking or going out.

Beverages got stocked in plenty. By “plenty,” I mean our beer cart looked like apocalypse preparation. Imperial and Pilsen, Costa Rica’s main beer offerings, became familiar friends. The fridge would struggle fitting beer and food. A small cooler joined our shopping list. Priorities, people.

After a quick town tour, we headed back. Aggressive iguanas seemed to own the place. We dodged them while admiring local character. Time to stock the fridge and pantry. Time to plan the week ahead.

Site Inspections: The Glamorous Life of Travel Agents

Tina and I spent the next day on site inspections. For those who aren’t travel agents, let me explain. This involves visiting hotels and resorts. Getting tours of properties and amenities. Getting a hands-on feel for places. Speaking from experience when providing client options.

The Reality Behind the Glamour

It sounds glamorous, doesn’t it? Walking through luxury resorts. Seeing rooms that cost more per night than your monthly car payment. Sipping complimentary champagne during the full tour. Sure, there are those moments. But it’s also one hell of a long day. Hours of endless sorting through notes and photos follows. I build formatted summaries to present to clients. The spouse appreciates my organizational skills. Usually. Sometimes. Okay, she tolerates them.

Thankfully, only two properties were accessible on short notice. First up: Secrets Papagayo. This adults-only, all-inclusive resort perches on a hillside. Commanding views of the Papagayo Peninsula stretch before you. Everything you expect from this five-star chain, and we were impressed.

Infinity pools seem to pour directly into the Pacific. Swim-up bars mean never leaving the water for a refill. Rooms feature amenities that make you question going home at all.

Boutique Charm at Casa Conde

The other property was beautiful Casa Conde Beachfront Hotel. Smaller, more intimate. Personal touch absent from mega-resorts. Stop in and chat with Jose Miguel if you get a chance. He runs the place with genuine passion for hospitality. He knows more about the area than Google Maps ever will.

The drive between hotels offered picturesque scenery. Stunning sea vistas appeared around every turn. The Papagayo Peninsula is a study in contrasts. Dense tropical dry forest on one side. Pristine beaches on the other. Luxury developments punctuate it all. These sprouted up over the past two decades.

The road winds along cliffsides. Bright blue Pacific waters stretch to the horizon. Boats head out for fishing or diving excursions.

The Best Ceviche This Side of Anywhere

We stopped for lunch at a small roadside place. Fabulous ceviche. The fish was probably swimming that morning. Perfect balance of lime, cilantro, and heat. The kind that makes you close your eyes and just savor it.

We spoke with lots of locals that day. On our return trip, we both remarked how much Costa Rica felt like Ecuador.

The landscape is similar. Tropical, volcanic. Distinctive microclimate variation means going from desert-dry to rainforest-lush in mere miles. The food is similar. Heavy on rice and beans, fresh seafood. Plantains prepared seventeen different ways. People are just as friendly and welcoming as Ecuador. That easy-going warmth makes you feel like a neighbor rather than a tourist.

Fresh Fish and the Art of Group Travel

That same day, the rest of our crew stayed close to home. Pool time and beach lounging won over hotel-hopping. Smart choice. When we returned, all six of us took a short drive. Destination: the nearby fish market. I picked up fresh-caught red snapper for our evening meal.

Fish Market Wisdom

The fish market near Coco is the real deal. Fishermen bring their catch directly from the boat. No middleman. No refrigerated trucks. Just fish swimming in the Gulf of Papagayo a few hours ago. We talked to locals. Asked about other eateries. Authentic Costa Rican cuisine was the goal. Got a couple good tips to check out.

Back at the villa, comfort and relaxation followed. Grilled fish and drinks poolside. Stories and reminiscing. Laughter about past adventures. Something about grilling fresh fish changes your perspective. Add cold beer and a pool. Add the sound of waves in the background. Suddenly you realize you’re doing life right.

Choosing Your Travel Tribe

Let me take a moment to discuss traveling in small groups. It’s a horse of a different color entirely.

You can’t just say to anyone, “Hey! Want to go to Costa Rica for 10 days?” Choose your travel companions carefully. Traveling this way means you’re virtually roommates. You don’t retreat to your own hotel room when Uncle Jerry tells that gallbladder surgery story. Again. For the fifteenth time. You’re sharing spaces. Kitchens, bathrooms, common areas.

Someone’s morning person energy clashes with someone else’s nocturnal tendencies. Someone thinks air conditioning should be set to “Arctic blast.” Someone else prefers “equatorial sauna.”

The Pre-Trip Honesty Session

It’s tricky learning everyone’s likes, dislikes, must-haves, and absolutely-mustn’t-haves. Peaceful temporary cohabitation requires knowledge. Then there’s the adding-new-people ritual. Pre-meetups ensure no room for potential conflict. Plan for a blunt honesty session before embarking on group adventures. Everyone involved needs awareness of thoughts and feelings about each trip aspect.

Morning person who needs coffee and silence for the first hour? Say so. Hate seafood? Speak up. Require exactly seven and a half hours of sleep or become a rage monster? We need to know these things.

Time spent investigating potential travel companions is time well spent. We’ve been blessed with our travel companions. We’re always looking to add to the list. People we’d happily share a villa with for ten days.

Into the Highlands: Rincon de la Vieja Adventure

The following day, the missus and I headed out. Self-planned and self-guided excursion time. We’d done online research. Armed with Google Maps and positive attitude. What could possibly go wrong? (Foreshadowing alert.)

Actually, we did very well! About an hour and a half into the highlands we ventured. Natural hot springs awaited. Mud pots bubbled. Waterfalls cascaded. All associated with nearby active Rincon de la Vieja volcano.

Understanding the Volcano

For those unfamiliar with Costa Rican geography, Rincon de la Vieja is one of several active volcanoes. The Guanacaste mountain range hosts it. The national park bearing its name sits at elevations from 2,000 to 6,200 feet. Both tropical dry forest and cloud forest ecosystems thrive here. It’s about an hour northeast of Liberia.

Climbing into the highlands transforms the landscape. Dry, brown lowlands give way. Increasingly lush vegetation takes over.

Volcanic activity here creates geothermal features. Boiling mud pots bubble and belch like sci-fi movies. Fumaroles hiss steam into the air. Hot springs let you actually soak. Once you find ones that aren’t literally boiling. Waterfalls feed from rivers warmed by underground volcanic heat.

Wildlife Encounters

Hiking through rocky and tropical terrain required effort. Trails ranged from well-maintained paths to “I think this is still technically a trail” routes. The air smelled of sulfur near volcanic features. Howler monkeys echoed through the canopy. Their sound sits somewhere between a roar, a howl, and a troublesome chainsaw.

We saw plenty of wildlife. Coatis scurried across the path. Iguanas basked on sun-warmed rocks. Various bird species provided a soundtrack. Calls we couldn’t identify but appreciated nonetheless. The wife, being responsible, packed plenty of water, snacks, and sunscreen. I packed my sense of adventure. Left logistics to her, as is tradition.

Roadside Dining Done Right

Another stop for roadside lunch at a soda. That’s what Costa Ricans call small, family-run restaurants. The food at these places is simple but excellent. Casados (traditional plate with rice, beans, plantains, salad, and protein). Gallo pinto (rice and beans mixed, usually served at breakfast). Fresh fruit drinks put any smoothie chain to shame.

Unbeknownst to us, the rest of our group booked virtually the same excursion. They opted for an English-speaking guide pickup. Their friends got just as much fun and adventure. Even included horseback riding for them. Great example of knowing your travel companions well. Everyone independently thinks the same things sound fun and adventurous.

Evening Reflections

Reconvening at the villa that evening, comparing notes on separate but parallel adventures brought laughter. They had air-conditioned transportation. A guide who knew exactly where to go. We had the satisfaction of figuring it out ourselves. Only got slightly lost twice. Both approaches have merit. Though I’ll admit theirs probably involved less cursing at Google Maps.

Nice to spend the evening chilling by the pool. Drinks and story swapping. The sun set over the Pacific in spectacular fashion. Somewhere in the darkening Gulf of Papagayo waters, boats headed back to harbor. The day’s catch secured.

Christmas Day at Ocotal Beach

Christmas Day arrived. We had no plans other than dinner out. Exactly the kind of Christmas I’d been dreaming about. My “no more Canadian Christmases” proclamation was paying off.

Beach Day Bliss

Tina and I spent lots of time on the beach. Ocotal Beach, despite dark volcanic sand, has beautifully clear, calm waters. Protected location in the cove creates this. During low tide, natural pools form among rocky areas. Both beach ends offer perfect spots. Poking around reveals small fish. The occasional sea star appears.

The beach earned its Blue Flag designation. Cleanliness showed everywhere. No trash. No debris. Just pristine sand. Gentle waves lapping at shore.

Lots of photo opportunities appeared. We wrote our names in that black sand. Christmas messages too. Just being silly. “Merry Christmas from Costa Rica” in foot-high letters. If you’re going to rub it in to folks back home dealing with snow, commit fully. We photographed palm trees, beach, water, sky. Basically everything, as one does when experiencing a completely different Christmas.

The Quiet Magic of Ocotal

The unique thing about Ocotal Beach is how quiet it stays. Even during peak season, it doesn’t get Tamarindo’s crowds. Other Guanacaste beaches either. It’s primarily residential. Villas and condos tuck into the hills. Locals appreciate the peaceful vibe.

You might see a few families. Some snorkelers explore the reefs. Boats moor in the cove. But you’ll almost always find a spot to yourself.

Temperature hovered around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Typical for Guanacaste’s dry season. Low humidity. Gentle breeze off the Pacific. The kind of weather that makes you question why anyone voluntarily lives where water turns solid for months.

Connecting with Home

Very relaxing day all around. When we returned to the villa, we called our kids. Other family back home too. Wished them Merry Christmas from Costa Rica. Only being a little evil about it. Maybe more than a little. Okay, absolutely rubbing it in. It felt glorious.

Upscale Christmas Dinner and the Importance of Reservations

We’d made reservations at an upscale restaurant in Coco. When we arrived, we weren’t disappointed. Modern, classy place. We were seated with the room almost to ourselves. Playas del Coco’s restaurant scene has really developed over the years. Everything from beachfront cantinas to sophisticated establishments. Wouldn’t be out of place in San José or any major city.

Feast from the Pacific

The menu was filled with fish and seafood. The other half and I immediately ordered aquatic cuisine. When you’re on the Pacific coast, you eat what the Pacific provides. No shortage of land-based menu items either. Those in our group less enamored with seafood had options. Fresh snapper, mahi-mahi, tuna. Caught in local waters. Prepared with that distinctive Costa Rican touch. Somehow makes everything taste better than it should.

Delicious meal served with fine wine. More laughs followed. We stayed much longer than the establishment probably liked. Plenty of availability remained. No rush to leave. Christmas Day in a beach town means most tourists are at resorts. Casual family dinners elsewhere. Going out to nice restaurants on Christmas isn’t high on most lists. Worked perfectly in our favor.

Extending the Evening

We did stay quite late. Ready for pre-bedtime drinks when we got back. Small talk at the villa. Something about tropical evenings makes you want to extend the day. Air temperature drops to comfortable levels. Stars come out in force. Guanacaste’s dry air and limited light pollution make for excellent stargazing. Sound of waves provides constant, soothing background noise.

Playa Hermosa and Building Friendships Over Lunch

Next morning, Dave and Kate ventured out on their own. Meeting up with Dave’s long-lost relation. Apparently Costa Rica is small enough to randomly bump into family you didn’t know lived there. We talked Walt and Bobbie into joining us. Another trip beckoned. This time to nearby Playa Hermosa for lunch.

Beautiful Beach Lives Up to Its Name

Playa Hermosa translates to “Beautiful Beach.” Yes, multiple beaches in Costa Rica have this name. Costa Ricans aren’t big on creative naming. Sits just a short drive north of Coco. True to its name, it’s a gorgeous stretch of grey-tan sand. Splendidly calm water makes it one of the best swimming beaches in the area. The bay is protected. You don’t get big Pacific waves hitting other beaches. More family-friendly, more laid-back. Vibe slightly less touristy than Coco.

We found a lovely and lively spot. Main drag near the beach. Spent lots of quality time together. Expanding our knowledge of each other. This is what group travel is really about. Not just seeing new places. Deepening friendships in a setting removed from normal routines. Over plates of ceviche and cold beers (Imperial, always Imperial), we talked about everything and nothing.

Once again, our faces hurt from laughter. Almost regretted having to head back. Kate and Dave needed catching up on their day. Dinner plans needed making.

The Google Maps Disaster: A Cautionary Tale

Kate and Bobbie had been Googling restaurants. Decided on a place also recommended earlier by locals. Don’t ask me the name. Casa something or other. All I know is it promised authentic Costa Rican cuisine in a scenic location. We were sold.

Setting Out Into Darkness

Six of us piled into two cars. Headed out into the wilds as dark approached. Google Maps armed our car. Waze navigated the other. For those keeping score at home, this is where things get interesting.

Tina always drives in foreign countries. She’s better at it than I am. Stays calm, cool, and collected under pressure. Unknown driving conditions. Whatever passes for traffic laws. I have many talents. Navigating stressful driving while maintaining composure isn’t among them.

Dave helmed their car. Kate acted as navigator. I provided Tina with Google’s instructions from the passenger seat. Role I’m eminently qualified for. Primarily involves reading out loud. Occasionally saying, “I think we should have turned back there.” We were in the lead vehicle. Tina’s bossy like that. Probably wanted Dave to eat her dust the whole way.

Into the Fog

I could clearly see our vehicle moving on Google Maps. Tracking directly toward the pin marked destination. End of a dead-end road. Route seemed straightforward. Head inland from the coast. Wind your way up into the hills. Easy. What could possibly go wrong?

Total darkness fell. When I say darkness, I mean complete, oppressive darkness. Far from any city lights. Surrounded by jungle. Beginning to question life choices. Visibility on the narrow, twisting, steadily climbing road was limited. Whatever our headlights could illuminate. Which wasn’t much.

Higher we climbed, more fog formed around us. Not gentle mist. Thick, soupy fog. Reduced visibility to maybe twenty feet if lucky. The kind of fog that makes you wonder if you’ve driven into a horror movie.

The Road Less Traveled (For Good Reason)

Road itself was clearly recently bulldozed out of jungle. Roughly carved from mountainside. Civil engineering that makes you grateful for seatbelts and good brakes. We hadn’t seen a house or building for some time. Just dense jungle on one side. What appeared to be empty air on the other. Couldn’t see lights of anything resembling civilization. Only reassuring headlights of friends’ car behind us. Following us into whatever fresh hell Google Maps led us toward.

“Are you sure this is right?” the wife asked. Her knuckles white on the steering wheel.

“Google says we’re almost there,” I replied. Considerably more confidence than I felt.

Road continued climbing and twisting. Each switchback more dramatic than the last. Trees pressed in from both sides. Branches occasionally scraped the car. Sounds that did nothing to calm anyone’s nerves.

Finally, I spotted a light ahead. “There! See? I told you Google knew what it was doing.”

We continued climbing and weaving toward that lone beacon. Hope building with each turn. We were going to make it. Find this restaurant. Have an amazing meal. Laugh about this whole adventure.

The Non-Restaurant at the Top

We arrived at a closed and locked gate. Nothing but a utility shed behind it. Not a soul in sight.

Of course, Google proclaimed we’d reached our destination with the cheerful certainty that makes you want to throw your phone out the window. The spouse and I looked at each other. Silently communicating marital telepathy. Comes from years of getting lost together in foreign countries.

“What planet have we been beamed to?” I muttered. Looking around at fog-shrouded mountaintop. Definitely not a restaurant.

Dave and crew pulled up behind us. Everyone got out to stretch legs. Figure out where we went wrong. Fog swirled around us like a B-movie. Temperature had dropped noticeably. Only sounds were our voices. Some vaguely ominous rustling from the jungle.

Kate said Waze gave them different instructions than Google Maps. Fact that would have been useful thirty minutes earlier. We decided to try following Waze and Kate’s navigation. Out of this mountain-top jungle. Before we became characters in a cautionary tale.

Near-Death Discovery

Piling back into vehicles, I happened to notice something. If we’d driven another twenty feet in any direction from where we stopped, we’d have driven right off the mountain. Drop-off was steep. Went down into darkness our flashlights couldn’t penetrate.

“Thank you, Google!” I called out sarcastically to the universe. “Really appreciate the helpful navigation!”

Eventually we found our way to the actual restaurant. Thanks to Waze and Kate’s superior navigation skills. Which I will never let my wife forget. As is the way of married couples everywhere. Place was indeed worth the adventure. Authentic Costa Rican food. Reasonable prices. Stunning view we couldn’t really appreciate in darkness. Could imagine was spectacular in daylight.

Making Memories Through Near Disasters

Much laughter shared over wilderness adventure we’d thankfully survived. Dave proposed a toast. “To Google Maps! May it never lead us to certain death again.”

“I’ll drink to that,” I said. Raising my Imperial. “Though in fairness, the certain death part did make finding the restaurant more memorable.”

The wife rolled her eyes. But she was smiling. This would become one of those stories we’d tell for years. The time Google Maps tried to kill us on a Costa Rican mountainside. We lived to have dinner anyway.

The Clifftop Restaurant: A Perfect Ending

On our final full day in Costa Rica, the six of us explored close to home. Our villa sat at the base of a cliff where it met the beach. We’d been told of another great restaurant. Perched on top of that same cliff. Of course, both vehicles headed out to find this hidden gem.

The Long Way Up

Turned out, the restaurant was virtually right above our villa. Sounds close until you realize “above” means about 500 feet straight up. Took at least half an hour to wind our way up. Steep switchback road carved its way to our destination. Road carved back and forth across the cliff face. Each turn revealed new coastline views below.

Views along the way were absolutely stunning. We stopped several times. Everyone took photos of the Gulf of Papagayo stretching below. From this elevation, you could see the entire curve of the bay. Dark volcanic sand of Ocotal Beach contrasted with bright blue water. Boats bobbed at anchor. Green hills framed it all. Papagayo Peninsula stretched to the north. On clear days like this, you could see miles down the coast.

Perfect Final Meal

Restaurant itself was quiet and refined. Open-air design took full advantage of views. Day was beautiful. Sunny, warm. Just enough breeze to keep things comfortable even at midday. Food was excellent. Fresh seafood. Traditional Costa Rican dishes prepared with care. Presented with pride.

Perfect way to end our Costa Rica stay. Good food, good friends, good times. The kind of meal where nobody’s in a hurry. Conversations meander from topic to topic. Laughter comes easily and often. We toasted to the trip. To each other. To adventures had and ones still to come.

Looking out over the Pacific from that clifftop perch, I reflected on our luck. Lucky to have found travel companions game for anything. Volcano hikes to getting lost on mountains. Lucky to have discovered Ocotal Beach. This quieter alternative to Guanacaste’s busier destinations. Lucky to be married to a travel agent. Makes these trips happen while I just show up and provide color commentary.

Reflections: Costa Rica vs. Ecuador

Tina and I have reflected many times since that trip. How much Costa Rica reminded us of Ecuador. That comparison has only deepened with time. Both countries straddle the Pacific coast. Volcanic mountain ranges run through them. Both feature distinctive tropical climate with micro zones. You can go from dry to wet in remarkably short distances. Both have warm, welcoming people. Make you feel at home rather than like a walking ATM.

The Cost Difference

Only significant difference we encountered was cost. Costa Rica is much more established as a tourist destination than Ecuador. Prices for everyday items reflect that reality. What you might pay $3 for in Ecuador could easily be $8 or $10 in Costa Rica. Property and real estate spiked in recent years. Increasing interest from tourists wanting to retire there drove this. “Retire to paradise” marketing that Costa Rica successfully deployed drove up costs across the board.

Speaking with locals during our stay, we discovered utility costs are significantly higher than Ecuador’s. As so often happens with amazing places, once tourists discover them, prices rise quickly. Supply and demand at work. Makes you wonder if beautiful destinations price themselves beyond reach. The people who made them special in the first place.

Would We Return?

Would all of us return to Costa Rica? Absolutely. Beautiful country full of beautiful people. So much more to see than the small area where we stayed and explored.

What We Missed

We barely scratched Guanacaste’s surface. Didn’t make it to Tamarindo. The surf mecca that draws wave riders from around the world. Missed the famous Rio Celeste waterfall in Tenorio Volcano National Park. Volcanic minerals turn the water an otherworldly bright blue. Didn’t visit turtle nesting beaches at Playa Grande or Ostional. Thousands of sea turtles come ashore to lay eggs during nesting season.

Monteverde Cloud Forest is just a few hours away. Offers a completely different ecosystem from dry tropical forest of the coast. Arenal Volcano region to the east features more hot springs. Rainforests and adventure activities you couldn’t possibly fit into one trip. Nicoya Peninsula to the south has dozens of beaches. Each with its own character and appeal. Much like Mexico’s Riviera Maya offers endless coastal variety.

Final Thoughts

I’d recommend Costa Rica to anyone. Destination with lots to offer for both seasoned travelers and newbies alike. Considering your own trip to this beautiful country? I encourage you to work with a travel advisor who knows the region. Local knowledge, connections, and insider tips they can provide will transform your trip. From good to unforgettable.

As for Ocotal Beach specifically? The kind of place I’d return to in a heartbeat. Quiet enough to relax. Accessible enough to explore. Beautiful enough to never take for granted. Looking for a Guanacaste beach destination that offers peace and proximity to activities? Without the crowds? Ocotal Beach Costa Rica deserves a spot on your list.

Just maybe skip the whole “following Google Maps into a foggy mountain jungle” part. Trust me on this one.

*Pura vida*, everyone. Until the next adventure.